How To Understand Knitting Patterns
by Barbara Breiter

Knitting patterns are written using abbreviations. They also use a code involving parentheses and asterisks. Once you understand how to read a pattern, it is actually easier to understand than if every instruction was written out in full.

A knitting pattern will give you basic information you need to know before you can start knitting. It will give you information about the yarn that was used to knit the project. In most cases, it will tell you the name and color, the number of balls or skeins, the fiber content, and the number of ounces and/or grams and yards and/or meters per skein. The information is helpful if you'd like to substitute yarns.

The pattern will also give you the gauge you will need to work to in order for the project to be the indicated size. Most times you will also see a row gauge but sometimes not. It will also tell you if the gauge swatch was worked over a particular pattern stitch. If none is given, assume the gauge is measured in stockinette.

If you are knitting a garment that fits more than one size, you will see information about this; increasing sizes are shown in parenthesis. As you look through the pattern, you'll see that various instructions are given in parenthesis; they appear in the same order as the sizes.

You will also see a needle size shown. Please be aware that these are only the estimated needle sizes you will need. They are only the size needle that the designer used to achieve the gauge of the pattern with that particular yarn.

When you see an asterisk or *, it means you are to repeat something.
For example:
k3, *p1, k1; rep from *, k3

This means you would knit 3 stitches to begin. Then purl 1 and knit 1. Repeat this across the entire row until you get to the last 3 stitches and then knit those 3 stitches.
Imagine you were knitting 106 stitches. This one row of knitting if written out entirely would be extremely long and confusing. This is why abbreviations are so useful.
When you see parentheses, it also means you are to repeat something but in a slightly different way. For example:
k2, *(p1, k2) twice, p1, k1; rep from *, end p1

To begin, knit 2 stitches. Everything in parentheses is worked two times. So you would purl 1, knit 2, then purl 1 and knit 2 again. Then go on to purl 1 and knit 1. Because there is an asterisk as well, repeat everything from the asterisk across the entire row until you get to the last stitch. Then purl 1.

Knitting Abbreviations
These are commonly used knitting abbreviations and their meanings.

approx	approximately	rem	remaining	yo	yarn over
beg	begin or beginning	inc	increase	yon	yarn over needle
CC	contrasting color	dec	decrease	yrn	yarn round needle
CO	cast on, cast off	rnd	round	est	established
MC	main color	cn	cable needle	wyif	with yarn in front
BO	bind off	rep	repeat	p or P	purl
WS	wrong side	st(s)	stitch(es)	sl	slip
RS	right side	back	loop	k2tog	knit 2 together
psso	pass slip stitch over	pm	place marker	eor	every other row
pat	pattern	sm	slip marker	wyib	with yarn in back
St st	stockinette stitch, stocking stitch	SSK	slip 1, slip 1, knit two together	tbl	through back loop(s)
cm	centimeter	M1	M1 make one	tog	together
pass	slipped stitch over	K or k	k or K knit	k2tog tbl	knit 2 together
mm	millimeter	cont	continue	p2tog	purl 2 together
yfon	yarn forward over needle	dpn	double pointed needles	Rev St st	reverse stockinette stitch
yfrn	yarn forward and round needle	p2tog tbl	purl 2 together through	k1, s1, psso	knit one, slip one
[   ] repeat instructions inside brackets as indicated		* repeat instructions following or between asterisk as indicated		through back loop

Substituting Yarn In Knitting Patterns
As you branch out, you'll often find you want to substitute the yarn called for in a pattern for any number of reasons.

First, what is the weight of the yarn? Worsted? Sport weight? You need to select a yarn that is in the same weight class. If you don't, you won't be able to obtain the correct gauge and your project will not be the correct size. Don't even try it. It won't work.

If you're using a heavier weight yarn such as bulky, you can try two strands of worsted weight yarn held together throughout. Check your gauge carefully. Once you achieve the gauge, the resulting fabric should be neither too loose nor too stiff (unless of course that is the intent of the design).

Second, think about the fiber content of the original yarn. Although you may think your project turns out perfect if you substitute chenille for cotton, these two fibers produce a knitted garment with entirely different looks and feel. The way the knitted fabric will drape is another consideration in terms of fiber.  Third, you want to make sure you have purchased sufficient yarn from the same dye lot to complete your project. You can no longer purchase 8 balls of Brand X because you are now going to be using Brand Y. Do not ever substitute by buying the same number of balls or by the total number of ounces or grams. There are differences in the number of yards in even closely equivalent yarns; if the fiber content is different, you will likely find a difference in the yardage because some fibers are heavier than others (cotton is heavier than wool and will have fewer yards, all things being equal). You must substitute by making sure you have bought the equivalent number of yards or meters.

Your pattern should indicate that the original yarn had, for example, 100 yards per ball. You needed 8 balls, which is a total of 800 yards. The yarn you selected has 85 yards per ball. Divide 800 by 85 and you'll see you need 9.4 balls of the new yarn. Round this up to 10; do not round down. It's always a good idea to purchase one extra skein in addition to the number you've come up with.  If you are substituting by double stranding, you must double the yardage you will need to purchase.

Knitting Gauge: Understanding Gauge & Knitting Swatches
You'll see gauge (also sometimes referred to as tension) mentioned in two places: your pattern and the yarn label. Assuming you are knitting with the same yarn as the pattern used, the gauge may or may not be the same.

The gauge on the label is only a suggestion. It's a starting point for the suggested gauge. You'll see needle sizes noted too. This is just a suggestion as well.

All yarn works to a variety of gauges with various needles sizes.
If the pattern gauge is different than the label, this is the gauge you need to achieve. Ignore the label.

Remember, this is only the gauge and the needle size that this particular designer achieved. Your mileage may vary. This is why you need to check your gauge before beginning to knit the project.
The only exception may be where the gauge isn't vital such as a scarf, afghan, or hot pad. But be aware that if you don't check it, your project may not be the indicated size.

To check your gauge, cast on enough stitches to work at least 4 inches. If the gauge is 16 sts=4 inches then cast on 18 sts minimum. Work in the stitch pattern indicated by your pattern (it isn't always stockinette) for at least 4 inches. The goal is to have a swatch at least 4 inches wide by 4 inches long. You can surround your swatch by a few rows of seed stitch, especially if your gauge is measured over stockinette. This will help it lay flat as you measure.

Bind off your stitches and let the swatch rest for a few hours.
Now count off the number of stitches that should equal four inches. You might want to place a straight pin on each side. They should measure exactly four inches. This is imperative. Even a quarter of a stitch can make a huge difference over a large number of stitches.

Now measure the number of rows in the same way. Sometimes you will be able to achieve the stitch gauge but not the row gauge. Unless the pattern is worked from side to side, the stitch gauge is more important. Go with that.

If you have more stitches per inch than your pattern calls for, your stitches are too small and you need to work the swatch again with a larger needle. If you have fewer stitches per inch than your pattern calls for, your stitches are too large and you need to work the swatch again with a smaller needle.